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HOMES>House & Garden>Travel

Travel

Seaside attraction: Ile de Re, France

Produced by Nerida Piggin
Thursday, September 2, 2010
Ile de Re, France
Photography David Henderson
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The pretty and popular French holiday haven of Ile de Ré offers a delightful European escape. Here are six great reasons that make it a bon voyage.

It's where the French holiday

During the European summer, popular seaside resort towns in the south of France teem with international tourists keen on soaking up the local flavour. To avoid the crowds, Parisians in search of a beach holiday head instead to Ile de Ré, a small island on France's Atlantic Coast. Just off the mainland from La Rochelle, it's an easy three-hour trip by high-speed train from Paris. At 30 kilometres long and five kilometres wide, this laidback isle retains an ambience of relaxed calm all year round. In summer, the permanent population of 20,000 swells to 200,000, but since these numbers are spread out across the island, visitors need never feel hemmed in by the hordes.

You can cycle everywhere

At its highest point, Ile de Ré is just 19 metres above sea level, so the gentle topography encourages leisurely exploration by bicycle. In fact, cycling is the preferred mode of transport for both locals and tourists, all of whom make good use of a 100-kilometre network of dedicated, well-signposted bike tracks. The absence of cars on most routes makes cycling safe for even the wobbliest of riders. En route, you'll encounter plenty of scenic pit stops: there are 10 picturesque villages to cycle through, not to mention sandy beaches, salt marshes, vineyards and pine forests. Bike racks abound in each town, and locks and helmets are included in bicycle rental fees.

For the food!

The island is blessed with an abundance of foodie treasures. Of particular note, naturally, is fresh seafood. When the tide's out, miles of oyster beds are exposed, leaving the flats black with shells. Village merchants stock tank after tank of gently undulating live lobsters and crabs. Fish is caught and prepared fresh from the sea in unpretentious waterfront bistros. Also expect steaming bowls of mussels flavoured with pine needles, and small, sweet shellfish known as vanets. Roadside stalls sell local produce and markets are stocked with fresh vegies, cheese, baguettes and other typically French delights. The island's salt marshes produce some of the tastiest hand-harvested sea salt in the world, marketed under such names as Esprit du Sel. Be sure to sample the local aperitif, pineau des Charentes, made from equal parts cognac and grape juice. For dessert, the locally made ice cream is a gourmet treat. La Martinière ice-cream parlour in Saint Martin de Ré offers a vast array of flavours, ranging from traditional to exotic: caramel à la fleur de sel (sea-salt caramel) is highly recommended.

For the ambience

The main township, Saint Martin de Ré, is a bustling port fronted by a series of whitewashed buildings with pretty balconies and blue-shuttered windows. Adding to the charm are little shops nestled in cobblestone streets and family-run restaurants that stay open late into the night. Buskers serenade you on your evening stroll. Here, history is everywhere: stone fortifications from the 1600s make a dramatic backdrop to the town and World-War-II bunkers can be explored at Plage des Quatre Sergents beach. At La Flotte, visit the ruins of a 12th-century monastery, Abbaye des Châteliers, and the lively markets, held each morning in a delightful medieval marketplace.

Ile de Ré is also noted for thalassotherapy spa treatments, which incorporate the reputed therapeutic powers of the local water, marine mud, seaweed and sand. Try it for yourself in a pampering session at local salons Relais Thalasso Ile De Ré, Le Richelieu or Thalacap.

It's intimate

Ile de Ré offers visitors a bevy of boutique hotels, ranging from quaintly basic accommodation to super-stylish establishments. Most are in former fishermen's cottages: whitewashed and shuttered, with flagstone floors, situated along cobblestone lanes decorated with romantic drifts of hollyhock. Typical of this style is the Hôtel le Sènéchal in Ars en Ré, owned by a design-loving couple from Paris. Rooms overlook a small garden and pool, and meals can be enjoyed in gorgeous private courtyards. The interiors are defined by exposed stone walls and a chic mixture of antiques and contemporary pieces.

Le Clos Saint-Martin Hôtel & Spa is one of the larger hotels on the island. Originally a manoir (a country manor estate), the hotel offers 19 rooms, 13 suites and a private villa surrounded by manicured gardens. The rooms are luxuriously decorated with a coastal twist on French provincial style. Last year, a Clarins day spa opened on the premises, making a stay here a truly indulgent experience in every sense.

It's chic

The pure, unadulterated Frenchness of Ile de Ré is evident everywhere, from fishermen in striped jerseys to donkeys in gingham culottes, an unbearably cute tradition that continues today. (Originally, donkeys working in the salt marshes were clad in trousers to protect them from mosquito bites). A wonderful array of unique design stores and outdoor antiques markets means you can take a piece of paradise home with you. Chic homewares shops stock an array of delights, from linen tea towels and local pottery to handmade straw and leather handbags, and finely crafted beach chairs with a designer edge, the ideal memento of a laidback island interlude.

How to get there

Fly to Paris with Air France from most capital cities. For airfares, go to the Air France website. Take a high-speed train from Montparnasse to La Rochelle. For ticket prices and bookings, go to the TGV Europe website. From La Rochelle, take a bus or taxi across the 3km toll bridge that connects Ile de Ré to the mainland. Alternatively, hire a car and tour the coast. Go to Europcar; travellers over 60 are eligible for a 15 per cent seniors discount. Allow €9 for the La Rochelle toll bridge.

Where to stay

Hôtel le Sénéchal in Ars-en-Ré is a collection of beautifully refurbished villas and houses with eclectic furnishings, unique architectural features and lush private courtyards. Le Clos Saint-Martin Hôtel & Spa is located close to the harbour in the island’s capital, Saint Martin de Ré. The hotel offers a Clarins salon as well as richly decorated boutique accommodation.

How to get around

There are many bicycle rental outlets on the island, but if you’d like to book ahead, go to Tout à Vélo. Expect to pay about €13 per day for an adult and €7 per day for a child. Online bookings attract a 10 per cent discount.

For more information,go to the Ile de Ré website.

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