A quick dip into New Zealand's Maori culture – with wildlife visits and fun activities thrown in – provides a replenishing holiday for Tamarah Pienaar and her young son. Mind you, there's no underestimating the effect of gourmet food and a luxury resort on health and wellbeing...

The view of ice-blue lakes and rugged mountains out the window as my six-year-old son and I flew into Rotorua was enough to melt away the cares of family life in the city, the roundabout of work and school, housework and homework, rushing around... Here's a place we can breathe.

We're staying at Lake Okareka Lodge by Lebua. It's an intimate place, just three suites – all with lake views – plus a dining room and two sitting rooms (both with log fires). After exploring our suite, with many oohs and aahs at the luxe decor and 180-degree views, my son and I wander the magical grounds until dinner.

Dave the chef whips up a gourmet yet child-friendly dinner for my son – spaghetti in roasted tomato sauce, followed by a brownie with ice-cream and chocolate sauce – a meal my son pronounces "Magnificent!". My own dinner is a five-course masterpiece showcasing local produce. I have to agree with my son.

Next morning we're up early – we have an activity-packed day ahead. First stop is Rainbow Springs Kiwi Wildlife Park. The beautiful park is dedicated to the conservation of New Zealand's native wildlife. Formerly a dairy farm, the grounds have been planted with native ferns, cabbage trees, kauri and Californian redwoods, creating the perfect environment for the park's extensive aviary complex. There is a kiwi hatchery – eggs and at-risk young are brought here from all over the district to be raised and eventually released into the wild – and a darkened enclosure so visitors can catch a glimpse of these nocturnal birds in action. Trout and native reptiles are also on show, as are farm animals (including the most enormous pig we've ever seen!) in homage to the park's past.

We could spend many happy hours at Rainbow Springs Kiwi Wildlife Park, but we have a higher calling. We pop over to Skyline Rotorua, right next door to Rainbow Springs, and take the cable car to the top of the mountain. As you'd expect, there are unbeatable views over Rotorua, but Skyline's big drawcard is its thrilling luge ride (the first in the world, I'm told).

Next stop is Te Puia where we learn about Maori culture and see Rotorua's famous geothermal features in action. Our tour of the grounds takes us through the Te Heketanga-a-Rangi, a portal filled with larger-than-life carvings of Maori icons, past boiling mud pools and hot springs to Pohutu geyser, which amazes all onlookers with its power. The tour ends with a visit to the National Carving and Weaving schools, where my son has a go at making rope from flax.

A sunset cruise on Lake Rotoiti is next on the agenda. Matt from Pure Cruise guides the catamaran, Tiua, to the Manupirua hot pools where we sit and soak in the warmth. On the return journey, we relax on beanbags at the front of the catamaran. My son and I agree that there's nowhere in the world we'd rather be.

Back at the Lodge, Dave has prepared us a barbecue feast: NZ scallops, local beef, an array of delicious salads, warm bread and homemade butter. Sated and exhausted after our busy day, we take the lift up to our suite (mostly for the novelty factor) and fall into bed.

After a leisurely breakfast on our final day, my son and I make use of the Lodge's facilities to do a spot of kayaking. It's a great way to round off our trip to Rotorua, a trip that has been all go, go, go, yet totally relaxing at the same time. Must be something in the air.

What's the deal

Air New Zealand flies directly from Sydney to Rotorua twice weekly, other times via Auckland and Wellington.

For more information about Lake Okareka Lodge by Lebua, check out their website.

Tamarah Pienaar was a guest of Lake Okareka Lodge and travelled to Rotorua courtesy of Destination Rotorua.