Hitting the historic pubs in Mudgee, NSW, Angus Fontaine finds beauty in the eye of the beer holder.

Life's good when there's a cold beer waiting for you at the end of the road. Life's great when that involves pinballing between pubs of the calibre of those found in the picturesque town of Mudgee, in central-west NSW.

Truth be told, this is wine country. The sprawling Cudgegong Valley in which this town nestles boasts rich soil, hot sun and summer storms that turn mere mountains into a Grape Dividing Range. But before wine, there was the gold rush. Stocks of the precious metal may be exhausted, but sitting before a tasting rack of handcrafted ale, wheat beer and porter in the Mudgee Brewing Co, it seems a new gold rush is brewing.

Located inside an old wool store, owner Gary Leonard's taps have run with liquid amber since 2007. The attached restaurant — Mudgee Brewing Co Restaurant — has an inspired menu dreamed up by chef Stephen Price. Together, Leonard and Price have made Mudgee Brewing Co a local landmark.

Down the road, the Oriental Hotel (founded in 1876) is an elegant reminder that small-town Australia was built around its bars. We enjoy surf 'n' turf in The Ori bistro, where chef Dave Daniels dishes up about 2000 meals a week. It's a good night to crawl the pubs. There's a rugby test on the box and flatbed trucks park 10 abreast in the street. Inside the Waratah Hotel, tellies flicker with the footy, pool tables pulse with friendly rivalries and families feast on mixed grills. Upstairs, elbow-bending is a lovingly practised art form on the generous homestead-style balcony.

At half-time, we head for the Lawson Park Hotel, a heritage pub dating back to 1860, where I enjoy a Red Heifer Lager, a brew named for the establishment's Red Heifer Grill & Carvery.

This is the end of the line for me. I've discovered that Mudgee is a town filled with stories, best heard (and embellished) in a bar full of locals. Cold gold in hand, of course.

How to get there

Mudgee is a 260km drive north-west of Sydney. Take the M4 and Great Western Highway or the Kurrajong/Bells Line of Road through the Blue Mountains and Lithgow.

Where to stay

Oriental Hotel, Mudgee; (02) 6372 1074. Rustic old-school pub accommodation and blue-chip bistro feasts.
The Prince of Wales Hotel, Gulgong; (02) 6374 1166. Pioneer pub with modern rooms, hearty restaurant meals and great beer garden.
Cobb & Co Court Boutique Hotel, Mudgee; (02) 6372 7245. Upmarket B&B in the heart of town.

Where to eat

The Globe Hotel, Rylstone; (02) 6379 1048. Great steaks, cutlets and grills.
Foxwood Farm Fine Foods, Running Stream; (02) 6358 8251. This legendary roadside diner serves excellent gourmet pies.
Sajo's Lounge Bar & Restaurant, Mudgee; (02) 6372 2722. A heritage pharmacy morphed into a lounge bar. Killer coffee by day, cocktails by night.
Odie's Bistro, Post Office Hotel, Gulgong, (02) 6374 1031. Chef Robert O'Dwyer makes top pizzas.

For more information, go to www.visitmudgeeregion.com.au.