I'm cruising through the West Australian countryside with my new beau, Jamie, under salmon gums and past fields of hay stacks bunched teepee-style. We're on our way to York, on the edge of the West Australian wheatbelt, one-and-a-half-hours east of Perth. The trip is an escape from a hectic, Meet The Fockers-style week with my family in Perth.

An adoptive Sydneysider, I'd spoken breathlessly of the clear West Australian light of my childhood, the big skies filled with grey and pink galahs and canola fields. For extra wow factor, I booked us into Laurelville Manor, a restored, turn-of-the-century homestead with verandahs and turrets, and a reputation for romance.

Sandra Paskett and her husband Phil Cowin restored the mansion two years ago. Built in 1896, the eight-room bed and breakfast has high ceilings, open fireplaces, polished timber floors and bullnose verandahs with views over the town. Tactically placed cane chairs make it a perfect place for sunset watching.

We nestle in for drinks overlooking the lawn. Nibbling cheese and biscuits, we watch the sun sink below distant hilltops, turning the sky pale, then lavender.

We wake the next day to the smell of home-baked bread with fruit, muesli and a cooked breakfast with eggs from the chicken coop. The way to the heart being through the stomach, romantic weekends seem to involve a lot of eating - and we are off to an excellent start.

Next it is time to explore the town. Settled in 1831, York is one of the oldest towns in WA and one of the prettiest. A row of pastel, colonial-era facades lines the main street. There are museums and galleries, and a swinging bridge over the Avon River. Or, you can join the locals at one of the pubs on sleepy Avon Terrace.

After exploring The SockFactory, York Motor Museum and the old court house, we are ready for a break. Luckily, back at Laurelville, Sandra has whipped up hot scones for our return.

"I wanted to create a place that would do what I wanted for myself: someone to put a blanket on me, feed me, let me sleep, and bring me a glass of wine," she said, before retreating to prepare our candlelit roast dinner for two. Laurelville sits at the base of Mt Brown, one of two hills that overlook York. On our final day we climb to the lookout, passing fields of pink and yellow everlasting daisies on the way. Magpies sing. Crickets chirp. Wind rustles the leaves. Fockers, what Fockers? Looking out over the valley and the town, we feel like the only two people in the world.

Sweet stays

Laurelville Manor rooms cost between $230-$360 per night with breakfast included.

Boutique alley

York is a bonafide historical town, with attractions and interests aplenty.
The York Mill A gallery and coffee shop inside a restored, 1892 flour mill, selling furniture, jewellery, modern and Aboriginal art.
The York Motor Museum houses one of the largest private collections of vintage and classic cars. Call (08) 9641 1288.
York Olive Oil Company A romantic stroll or picnic in the olive groves is a lovely way to spend an afternoon.
York Wines This vineyard specialises in chemical and preservative-free varieties of wine, including grenache, cabernet sauvignon and shiraz.

Vivienne stayed courtesy of Laurelville.