Encircled by hills, the pretty NSW town of Young has always moved with the times. Today that means great wine, coffee and hospitality, writes Sarah Pickette.

From the haven of our broad verandah, the spires and rooftops of Young flash into view as lightning streaks across the sky. We've settled in to watch the impressive show with a bottle of local riesling when, as quickly as it swept into view, the storm vanishes and leaves us enveloped by an immaculate stillness. It is this, the quiet, that has drawn us to the south-west slopes of NSW for the weekend.

There's an easy rhythm to the days we spend here. Saturday morning's sunshine lures us out early for pastries and organic coffee at the nearby Art of Espresso. We grab a newspaper and breathe in the enticing wafts from the rear of the cafe, where owner Adrian Capra roasts his own beans.

Happily caffeinated, we wander along the town's broad main street. Its perfectly manicured streetscaping and industrious hum reflect a prosperity that many a country town would envy. The population (about 12,500) is growing, and so too are visitors to the area.

Every December, thousands descend on Young to celebrate the National Cherry Festival, which has for 63 years honoured the peak of the cherry season (60 per cent of Australia's cherries are grown in the region.)

Almost as much a local institution as the Cherry Festival is Poppa's Fudge and Jam Factory. From the moment we push open the doors owners Vicki and Kevin Powderly ply us with freshly made samples, from green tomato and pineapple jam to cherry sauce, cherry fudge and chocolate-dipped cherries...

We ease into Saturday afternoon by putting our feet up at our self-catering accommodation. Our meticulously decorated holiday home, 61 Edwards Street, is equipped with everything we could possibly desire. It would be tempting to sink into the sofa with a good book but we have wine to taste.

Young is at the very heart of the Hilltops viticultural region, where there's a genuine buzz about the calibre of the wines that are being produced.

Not far out of town is Moppity Vineyards, where winemaker Jason Brown invites us into his home for a glass of Moppity's much-awarded shiraz. Jason's enthusiasm for the potential of Hilltops wines - "we're giving the Barossa's shirazes a real run for their money," he says - is infectious.

Inspired by our visit with Jason, we're eagerly anticipating the delights on the wine list as we're ushered to our table at Mullino Bar & Grill that evening. Owing its generous proportions to a former incarnation as a Masonic Hall, Mullino is now a handsomely refurbished temple to fine dining. A glass of Chalkers Crossing sauvignon blanc in hand, we order locally grown olives to begin with, superbly tender 80-day grain-fed sirloin steaks and, naturally, poached cherries for dessert.

More birdsong and sunshine greets us on Sunday and, on the recommendation of every local we've encountered, we head to Wilders Bakery for breakfast. Country generosity, it seems, extends even to the serves of bacon and eggs! Full to bursting, we make for the Lambing Flat Chinese Tribute Gardens, a place of historic importance not only to the people of Young, but all of Australia. A stockman discovered gold here in 1860, creating a boom that would see Lambing Flat and Burrangong roll into a newly laid-out town called Young. In 1861 anti-Chinese riots took place on the crowded gold fields, which eventually led to the Official Riot Act being read to miners on July 14, 1861 - the only time it has been invoked in NSW.

Hitting the canola-lined highway to Sydney, we chat about the influence a town's history has on the essence of a place. Blessed as it is with good looks and vitality, we think it's no coincidence that Young, the site of such nation-building events, is living up to its name.

Getting there

Young is located 372km south-west of Sydney (about four hours' drive) and 162km from Canberra.

Stay

61 Edwards Street Lovely two-bedroom self-contained accommodation in easy walking distance of Young's main street. From $160/night; (02) 6382 2961.

Eat

The Commercial Hotel Recently renovated with topnotch pub fare. 167 Boorowa Street; (02) 6382 5899.

Drink

Only a few Hilltops wineries operate cellar doors, however a regional wine cellar has recently opened at the Young Visitor Information Centre. All Hilltops wineries are represented. Open seven days. (02) 6382 3394.

Visit

Lambing Flat Folk Museum See the famous ‘Roll Up Flag' carried at the 1861 riots and much more. (02) 6382 2248.

Find out more

The Young Visitor Information Centre is located in the town's heritage-listed railway station on Lovell Street. (02) 6382 3394.